Audi Water Pump Replacement Information

Symptoms Of A Worn or Bad Audi Water Pump

Within this page, we will discuss symptoms of a worn or bad Audi water pump. Common statements and questions regarding Audi water pumps are addressed and explained. What are the symptoms of a defective water pump? Did you recently install a new water pump and are now experiencing problems? What causes an Audi water pump to fail early?

Leaking Audi water pump can cause engine damage.

We've read some comments asserting that water pumps don't get weak, they catastrophically fail. Our decades of specialized Audi Vw repair service has shown that like most mechanical parts, the water pump warns you when it needs attention. The internal bearing and seals of an Audi water pump can weaken and is the primary reason why a water pump eventually fails. The typical driver isn't always alert to what is going on under the hood and may be unaware of the water pump's health. However, an experienced mechanic who is familiar with Audi or Vw engines can recognize the early signs of a weakening water pump. The most common symptom being a water pump leak. When unchecked, a leaking Audi water pump can eventually create a humming noise and possible engine overheating. In Blauparts own Audi Vw repair facility, experience has shown the most common causes of water pump failure to be: 1) age and/or high mileage and 2) a neglected coolant system that was not restored to the original factory intended condition during water pump replacement.

If it has been determined (not assumed) that your Audi water pump is leaking, you should not continue driving the car. Continued driving with a leaking water pump (for an extended period of time) can be catastrophic. There is the possibility that the internal Audi water pump bearing will develop excessive play, causing a misalignment of the water pump pulley, allowing the timing belt to rub against other components, thus resulting in timing belt failure and engine damage (see image above). The Audi water pump impeller may also rub against the inside of the engine block, causing fragments and debris to contaminate the cooling system. If this debris or sediment is not thoroughly flushed from the cooling system when installing a new water pump it will eventually lead to premature Audi water pump failure.

Audi Coolant System Contamination

Normal worn Audi water pump. Premature Audi water pump failure due to bad coolant flush.

Image 1) Original water pump removed from an Audi 2.7T with approximately 80,000 miles. This pump was not leaking. Note the normal discoloration of the aluminum casting. This is the result of minimum coolant contamination for this type of mileage.

Blauparts Audi water pump replacement 'Service Bulletin' pdf.

Image 2) Water pump removed from an Audi 2.7T with less than 3,000 miles due to leaking. It was wrongly assumed that it was a manufacturer defect. However, the evidence revealed that the leak was caused by coolant contamination. Note the abnormal black discoloration of the aluminum casting. The cause was a result of an additive (likely a flushing agent) containing muriatic acid/other acids being used (before or after the water pump replacement). Acids left in the coolant system ate away at the internal seals and caused premature water pump failure.

Crucial Audi Coolant Flush and Fill Information

Do you want your Audi water pump to last 60,000 to 90,000? Then, it is important to re-create the engine condition as it was when it left the factory. You can not be lazy when it comes to the water pump and timing belt replacement! Cutting corners now adds time, labor, and money later.

It is the installers responsibility to take the necessary time to thoroughly flush the cooling system. It has been noted that due to time constraints, inconvenience, and profit, many individuals, mechanics, and repair shops do not take the extra time needed to thoroughly flush the entire cooling system prior to the installation of a new Audi water pump. Just draining the cooling system and refilling it is not enough! Thoroughly flushing the coolant involves the engine block, radiator, heater core, and hoses.

Premature water pump failure (bearings and seals) can occur if you don't take the time to flush the entire cooling system and it's related components. Often when problems arise, such as a coolant leak, the new Audi water pump is blamed as the cause when if fact the opposite is true. It's usually because the installer has neglected to follow this important step.

Flushing The Audi Cooling System

It is imperative that the Audi cooling system be thoroughly flushed of all accumulated silt and sediment buildup. All aftermarket cooling system additives, or stop leak products that may have been added to the cooling system (past or preset) should be completely flushed! Thoroughly flushing the coolant involves the engine block, radiator, heater core, and hoses.

Only use tap water to flush the entire cooling system. Do NOT use cooling system flush products. Many of these agents contain muriatic and/or other acids. Remnants of these acids left in the cooling system can cause your new Audi water pump to prematurely fail (see Image 2).

Filling The Audi Cooling System

Use only Audi Vw G12 antifreeze coolant which was included in your timing belt kit (G11 pre 1997). These bottles contain coolant that is concentrated. You must dilute the coolant. Mix 50% coolant and 50% DISTILLED water. DO NOT mix normal tap water with new coolant. Tap water varies in PH and mineral content and depending on these factors, can adversely effect your new water pump and cooling components. IMPORTANT: Read the warnings on the antifreeze coolant bottle regarding improper use being harmful or fatal. Click here for our detailed page covering everything about Audi coolant / Audi antifreeze.

TIP: When topping off your cooling system, always use the factory approved Audi coolant and appropriate mixture ratios! Make sure that your local quick lube or mechanic isn't adding or topping off your system with incorrect coolant. Mixing factory approved coolant with any other coolant will cause an adverse chemical reaction with the existing coolant and contaminates the cooling system, thus affecting the longevity of the Audi water pump.

Audi Water Pump Leak

Age and/or high mileage is the most common cause of water pump leaks.

Don't jump to conclusions. You can't assume that a puddle of coolant under the car is due to a leaking water pump. An experienced A.S.E. certified mechanic that is familiar with your particular model can best inspect and verify where a coolant leak is coming from.

The diagnostic starting point involves removing the splash pan. This will enable you to see where the coolant is pooling. The passenger side of the engine compartment, the center front of the engine, or the drivers side? Common coolant leaks originate from coolant hoses and the expansion tank. The expansion tank often becomes brittle and leaks below it's location (in front of the drivers side wheel on most models).

When an Audi water pump is leaking, you'll usually find a trail of coolant from the water pump area down to the lowest point of the engine (depending of model). Removing the engine covers and visually inspecting the water pump is necessary. On some engines such as the 2.8L and 2.7L, coolant may have pooled onto the self of the flat oil pan surface.

"I have a coolant leak. How do I know if it's my Audi water pump?"

"I see coolant on the ground after the car has been running and is then parked. Could the water pump be leaking?"

"My Audi water pump appears to be leaking. What should I do?"

An Audi water pump usually leaks from the following areas:

1. Audi Water Pump Shaft Bearing or Seals

Age and/or high mileage is the most common cause of internal bearing and seals weakening or failing. Bad water pump bearings and seals usually cause a leak from the water pump shaft. Premature failure is typically due to contaminated antifreeze. Contamination caused by not thoroughly flushing coolant system, using flushing agents containing damaging acids, using or mixing incorrect fluid with factory approved.

See Crucial Audi Coolant Flush and Fill Information and Blauparts Audi Water Pump Replacement 'Service Bulletin' pdf.

2. Audi Water Pump Gasket Mating Areas

The key to a factory quality seal is in the preparation of the surface area. Take the extra time to properly clean the Audi water pump gasket and thermostat o-ring surfaces thoroughly. These surfaces should be free of all old gasket material and corrosion build up before installing your new Audi water pump and thermostat.To achieve the optimal just like new surface, it's usually necessary to use a medium grit scotch brite pad and/or angle die grinder with a medium grit scotch brite conditioning pad (see the video below). When the water pump mounting surfaces are thoroughly cleaned and smooth, gasket sealing agents are not needed!

Audi water pump gasket mating surface, the right way.Some installers have used sealing compounds which can significantly reduce the sealing function of the Audi water pump gasket. It is important to note that no sealing compounds were used when mating the water pump to the engine block from the factory. The factory Robert Bentley manual makes no reference to using sealing compounds during water pump replacement. It is important to pay attention to and follow the manufacturer's installation instructions. Sealing agents (RTV Form-a-Gasket silicones, aerosol adhesives or sealants) should NOT be used!

Premature leaking from the Audi water pump gasket mating area is almost always due to improper alignment during installation, mating surfaces not being prepared properly, or a sealing agent being used. Sealing agents (RTV Form-a-Gasket silicones, aerosol adhesives or sealants) vary in composition and intended usage. When used in conjunction with composite paper gaskets, they negatively affect the gasket's ability to properly compress and perform the sealing function, rendering them ineffective (see image 3).

Although uncommon, the wrong type of coolant can eat away at the gasket and eventually cause a leak. Double check all Audi water pump mounting bolts for tightness. A loose or missing water pump or thermostat housing bolt can also result in a leak.

How To Properly Prepare The Audi Water Pump Gasket Mating Surface Video

Incorrect Use Of Water Pump Sealing Agents

Premature Audi water pump failure due to gasket sealing agent.

Image 3) Water pump removed from an Audi 3.0L with less than 5,000 miles due to leaking. The customer wrongly assumed that it was a manufacturer defect. However, the evidence revealed that the leak was caused both by the use of RTV gasket material and coolant contamination. Using RTV material can cause the gasket to slip, resulting in misalignment during installation, producing a coolant leak. Sealing agents vary in composition and intended usage. When used in conjunction with composite paper gaskets, they negatively affect the gasket's ability to properly compress and perform the sealing function, rendering them ineffective. The abnormal coloration and thin film on the aluminum casting is evidence of acidic coolant contamination. See Crucial Audi Coolant Flush and Fill Information.

Appropriate gel like gasket sealing agents should only be used when there is severe pitting of the engine block surface and an even or smooth water pump mounting surface cannot be achieved. Not because you're cutting corners and don't want to take the time to clean the surfaces properly. An Audi Allroad 2.7L Turbo engine is shown in this video.

Regarding 1.8L engines, the same theories illustrated in this video apply. Installers need to take the extra time to correctly prepare the water pump o-ring area to ensure a factory quality seal. Be sure to clean all old o-ring material, built-up residue, loose debris, and prepare the surface using a medium grit scotch brite pad. Experience has shown that when not properly prepared the new 1.8L water pump o-ring may not seal evenly, resulting in possible hair line coolant leaks. In addition, sealing agents (RTV Form-a-Gasket silicone, aerosol adhesives or sealants) should not be used. We reference a 1.8L water pump in the video which illustrates the improper use of such RTV material. The example shows how stray RTV can let loose and clog internal components such as the heater core.

3. Audi Water Pump 'Weep Plug' Hole

Age and/or high mileage is the most common cause of a weep plug hole leak.

Water pumps are inspected and air pressure tested at the factory for any leaks. Per the manufacturer, all new water pumps have a break in period. Shortly after startup, it is not uncommon for a new water pump to have slight seepage or coolant discharge coming from this hole below the water pump pulley. This is because the unique seal material in a new water pump is designed to 'bed in' as the impeller shaft spins. Slight weeping or dampness from or around the discharge 'weep plug' or cap is allowable for at least 100 miles after installation and should not be attributed to a defective water pump.

However, in extreme cold climates (below freezing), it's important that the correct coolant mixture ratios be maintained. If the coolant ratio is incorrect, it can cause weakening of the machined weep hole tolerances causing a leak.

Audi Water Pump Noise

Users post videos of engine noises (whine, humming, squealing). Where is it coming from, they ask? Don't assume that the noise is coming from the the water pump, unless it has been leaking for some time. The possibility is very remote that the water pump is making the noise if it isn't leaking.

Many possibilities can account for front engine noises such as: Alternator bearing, AC compressor clutch bearing, viscous fan clutch bearing, serpentine belt tensioner(s), serpentine idler wheel, power steering pump, any other belt driven component, or lastly the timing belt tensioner idlers. A simple test is to remove the serpentine belt (which drives many of these components). If the noise goes away, it is a serpentine related component. If the noise persists, then it may be something behind your Audi's timing belt cover.

"There is a noise coming from the front of my engine. Is it my water pump?"

It is normal for a new Audi water pump to make a light hum during the manufacturer's break-in period. Some aftermarket manufacturers that use cheaper internal bearings may make a slightly louder drone. Blauparts only supplies the highest quality Audi water pumps that are manufactured using the OEM internal bearings and seals. Another cause for this type of noise can be an over tensioned timing belt. Incorrect timing belt tension puts additional stress on the internal water pump bearings, causing a droning noise.

It is very rare for an Audi water pump to make a rough grinding bearing noise. However, driving with a leaking water pump for an extended period of time can produce this type of Audi water pump noise. At this point, the internal bearings have developed excessive play and the seals have already failed. Continued driving of the car could be catastrophic.

Engine Overheating

Some drivers experience random overheating issues and wonder if this is caused by the Audi water pump. Intermediate or random overheating is usually due to an obstruction in the cooling system or a sticky, malfunctioning thermostat. We recommend looking at the thermostat first.

Has the car been overheated either by you or the previous owner? Depending on the severity or how long it was driven in an overheated state (one instance will do it), your cylinder heads (possible warping) and head gasket (weakening) will be affected. Warped cylinder heads or weak head gaskets intermediately begin to seal and unseal, discharging cylinder compression into the cooling system and disrupting or preventing the flow of coolant. This is usually what can cause overheating, not the Audi water pump.

Overheating due to a water pump is very rare. There is the possibility that the Audi water pump impeller has begun to separate or break loose from the shaft. This can result in insufficient engine coolant flow and possible overheating, due to the impeller's inability to turn the same RPMs as the engine. Remove and inspect the water pump to see if the impeller has spun on the shaft. This was known to happen on earlier (pre 2000) models. See the Audi water pump plastic impeller controversy. Expand your knowledge regarding this debate by watching our video.

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  • Questions & Answers (23)
  • January 23, 2016
    Question/Comment from:
    T B
    Hi! I’ve an audi A1 1.4 tfsi 2011 plate with 40,000 miles. The coolant warning light came on and so I topped it up with coolant mix. Within 2 hours the coolant has leaked out of the left side of the car and emptied the reservoir. No overheating, noise or anything else prior to the warning light going on. The car was serviced approx 2 months ago. Breakdown recovery have now taken my car to the garage, any ideas would be appreciated. Thank you, Tracey
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    Some reasons for your coolant loses could be a possible water pump leak, thermostat housing leak. Also I would recommend a full inspection of all the engine coolant flanges as these are made of plastics on the new cars and can crack or deteriorate. Also when servicing you coolant system always use coolants that are approved for you engine type. All 2011+ VW engines should use a G13 coolant. If you mix different types of coolants you can cause excessive adverse coolant reactions and long term coolant system damages. If you did mix different specification coolant I would recommend a full coolant system flush. A full coolant system flush and then using the proper specification G13 coolant would allow for long term coolant system reliability.
  • May 29, 2015
    Question/Comment from:
    Reed C
    Hello, I have had the premature water pump failures on my 1.8T beetle. in the last year 5 have been replaced. there is no problem in the o-ring sealing area - and the first two that were replace the coolant was replaced with the factory approved G12. after the second replacement the coolant was flushed and replaced with normal (green) antifreeze. the first four pump were: 1) factory original replaced by a VW dealer in TX. (lasted less than 20K miles) 2) NAPA part with metal impellor (made in Germany) 3) same as no. 2 - this time with green antifreeze 4) same as 3. 5) stopped using any type of German made pump when to Beck Arny pump again with metal impellor. all pumps failed quickly. There is no corrosion in the sealing area, checked the PH of the antifreeze and was correct. I can only assume that the pumps were poorly engineered or assembled. probably both. I have experience with water pumps - I personally rebuild water pumps for vintage alfa romeo giulietta. all these pumps use a typical rotary seal - just like the VW. the current water pump on my alfa has been on the spider since 1990 and has not failed. (use green antifreeze - and all aluminum motor just like the VW.) I will never purchase a german make auto again. from my experience they are junk. your write up is nothing more than a cover up for such a poorly designed cooling system and your vain attempt to shift the blame to someone else. check various sites - many list problems with VW beetle pump premature failures. Reed Cearley
    Answer from Jim of the blauparts technical team:
    Could have been the quality of the pumps. Could also have been caused by the coolant. I would flush the system using deionized water. Then use our Ravenol G12+ Premix which is diluted with deionized water
  • May 29, 2015
    Question/Comment from:
    Kevin F
    I have a 2004 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro. Timing belt and water pump were replaces 200km ago. Thought system was bled proper but now the rad fans run full blast, the temp gauge needle in right in the middle at 90. There is lots of interior heat when turned on. There is a bubbling sound like there is water boiling heard from inside car and infront of engine with hood up. When the bleed screw is loosened air/steam comes out but doesnt stop, just keeps steaming out. When reservoir cap is taken off bubbles come out and dont stop. What could be the problem?
    Answer from Jim of the blauparts technical team:
    Does the coolant come out of the coolant reservior (with the cap on) when the engine is at operating temprature? Was the engine ever overheated severely prior to the water pump replacement? If it was the head gasket may be leaking which will cause engine cylinder compression (air) to enter the cooling system. If the engine did not experience significant over heating then replace the thermostat and radiator fan thermo switch
  • February 18, 2015
    Question/Comment from:
    I have a 98 Audi A6 quat base series and I am having high rpms I have found that when a noise sqreching if you would say goes away the rpms tend to go down. Now I know that audis are a different type of vehilce so I ask can this be a water pump issue? Also with that being said how can I diagnose the rpm issue to see if its the water pump with the serp belt off without causing any type of problems anywhere else?
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    If you do not have a coolant leak it is likely Not the water pump. Extremely rare for a water pump to screech. Likely some other rotating component on the from of the engine. If the vehicle was in our shop and we suspected the noise was coming from the front of the engine, we would remove the serpentine belt for a few minutes and endeavor to determine which component that is driven by the belt is responsible for making the noise.
  • February 18, 2015
    Question/Comment from:
    Leo B
    good morning. i have a 2000 audi a6 quattro 4.2, and it just started making some noises when i turn the steering. do i need to change the fluid or is my power steering going out? thank you
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    Its more than likely not the water pump making the noise. Check that the accessory drive belt and make sure it is not loose and slipping. This belt drives the steering pump. When turning the steering wheel more load is put on the steering pump and belt. If the belt is tight and you think the steering pump is making the nosie, Change the fluid this may improve the situation. After changing the fluid and diving it 50 miles. If the noise persist you may have to change the steering pump.
  • February 18, 2015
    Question/Comment from:
    Danny F
    I just recently replaced the water pump with your kit and then I replaced the coolant expansion tank as well. After leaving my car sit for a while, I’ve been having a puddle of coolant directly under the expansion tank location, even though there are no signs of leak from the hoses or actual unit. Also when I start it up, sometimes I’ll hear an incredibly loud screeching noise. I took it to a mechanic whom I trust and he looked over everything and made sure it looked good. He did mention that I missed a bolt when I replaced the water pump, but he added replaced it. Could this have destroyed the new water pump after driving ~150 miles before getting that bolt? Any ideas what it may be? Water pump?
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    The noise and the leak are likely two separate issues. Check the new coolant tank for leaks. Check the hoses leading from the coolant tank to the engine. Check those hoses where they attach to the engine for leaks. Is the coolant leaking out of the cap after the engine is shut off ? Regarding the noise. Open the hood. Have someone start the car while your listening to the engine with the hood open. Try to isolate the area the noise is coming from. Once you know the area try to isolate which component is making the noise.
  • February 18, 2015
    Question/Comment from:
    Carrie R
    I have an 03 audi a4 and it leaks bad. As soon as i add coolant it leaks out as fast as it goes inmate.
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    Could be a host of possibilities. If you cant put a finger on it your best to take it to a experience and trust worthy Audi Vw Technician.
  • February 18, 2015
    Question/Comment from:
    Chris S
    04 audi a4 audi quattro can not enough coolant in the reservoir trigger the engine check light?
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    No it should not. Low coolant in the reservoir will on trigger the warning light in the middle of the dash
  • January 14, 2015
    Question/Comment from:
    Tory H
    I have a 98 a4 1.8t what kit do I need to replace water and everything that needs to be done with it also does the head gasket need to be replaced while doing this?
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    Use our navigation links at the top of the page and shop our Blau O.E. timing belt kit options for your Make, model,year and engine. No you should not need to replace the head gasket unless you have severally overheated the engine.
  • January 14, 2015
    Question/Comment from:
    Jack K
    NO HEAT / FLUSHED HEATER CORE / NEW THERMOSTAT / STILL NO HEAT / SUBSEQUENT SYSTEM FLUSH / STILL NO HEAT / ENGINE TEMP COOLER THAN NORMAL [2004 AUDI A4 1.8T] 1- Removed heater core hoses and attached 3/4” hoses to both in/out heater core ports; first ran steady stream through in-port with out flow hose into bucket… stream out was strong, debris in bucket limited to a few flecks of what appeared to be calcified water and/or coolant. Reversed order of flow (in thru out-port) into bucket and really did not notice any appreciable amount of debris. Reconnected heater core hoses, started car, opened reservoir and added coolant until max. level held. NOTE: I had the in-port hose pulled to the end of the nipple until coolant ran solid through the bleeder hole in factory hose(while car was running) and reattached/clamped hose. Let car run until temp gauge reached normal (halfway between C and H) checked heater operation… could only feel slight warmth which is about what it was before starting. Checked top hose going into radiator to see if it was firm… it was not, although it was hot, so it seems there was something running through it. 2- R/R thermostat housing- First I removed the temp sensor located in the drain valve located lower driver’s side of radiator. Drained fluid from that location. replaced sensor, opened reservoir and ran water through with engine running, turned car off and drained as before. Repeated this process 4-5 times until only water came out of system (was never quite sure water was completely drained from block). Proceeded to remove t-stat housing hoses and housing itself. It was very brittle and fused to block, so since I had a new unit, I used screwdriver and hammer to coax it off (in the process the old housing broke apart but did come off cleanly). Old housing and particularly the old t-stat were very gummed up with calcified coolant and whether it was working or not, definitely need to be replaced. Also replaced the J-plug and gasket that plugs the port in the block just to the right of the t-stat housing. Before reinstalling both, I was sure to clean the block facing where the t-stat housing and J-plug reconnect. Also cleaned just inside that area and removed a piece of cracked plastic (about the size of a dime, if that big), which I assumed came from the housing which broke when being removed. Dabbed up all fluid inside and thoroughly cleaned out, but, there was no appreciable dirt or crud. I did stick my fingers in to feel
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    Possible air locked cooling system. An air locked system will not circulate coolant properly through the heater core. Air bleed the cooling system, open air bleeder and rev/operate engine in PARK with hand brake on to 2500-3000 rpm for 5 minutes. This should push out the locked air in the system
  • January 14, 2015
    Question/Comment from:
    Clairmonte D
    My 2006 A4 is vibrating (like shimmying) when in park...and gets worse as the car is put in drive...it has 70k miles onit ....have you encountered anything like this.
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    We can only guess without seeing and hearing the vehicle. It may be engine/ignition related. The engine might be ¨missing¨ and not firing on all cylinders. You should plug it into VAG.Com diagnostic software and see if any fault code have been stored.
  • November 24, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    Bill S
    I did a timing belt replacement on my daughter’s A4 using your most comprehensive kit a year ago last summer. The kit included water pump, tensioner, all seals, etc. Last winter, she suffered with practically no heat at low engine speeds, and not much better heat at higher speeds. We bled the coolant at the top heater hose where it penetrates the firewall. The engine temp reads normal. This summer she forgot about it but now that it’s colder, it’s again an issue. Any suggestions where the problem might lie?
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    If it’s a 1996-2001 A4 the heater core may be plugged. The heater core is positioned in the vehicle in such a way that contaminates settle in it that restrict the coolant flow through the heater core resulting in poor heating characteristics.
  • November 11, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    Oliver R
    Hi, had the timing belt and water pump replaced 7 months ago, have noticed the coolant level dropping since, nothing drastic but is dropping so I top it up. Just recently with winter here I’ve noticed the heating isn’t running really hot like warm at best when it’s set to hi? It’s the a4 3.0 quattro I’ve booked it In with the garage who changed the belt and pump would just like your opinion, many thanks oliver
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    No heat in the car may be a separate issue and a coincidence especially if the temperature gauge is showing normal at about 190F when it warms up. Regarding topping off the coolant: If its the first time you had to top it off, wait and see. Just keep an eye on it. It may not go down again. If you need to refill shortly after refilling then we would suggest you have the cooling system and water pump inspected.
  • November 11, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    Jose R
    Hi i have an 2003 audi A4 3.0l 148miles and recently i stared seen drop of coolant on the front of the car above the oil pan. is it the water pump bad b need to be replace?also the car stared making squealing sound
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    If you hear any noises coming from the front the engine. Stop driving the car and have it inspected by a Audi Technician. Failure to not act immediately could result in engine damage. If you are in the Manitowoc, WI are we would be happy to inspect it for you for free.
  • November 8, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    Brian R
    2004 Audi A4 Quattro 3.0 manual trans. My car has 112,000 miles on it, the a/c compressor locked up and the serpentine belt broke as a result. I was holding off on buying a new compressor, so I did research and found an a/c pulley bypass belt to get me through this winter. After installing the belt (not absolutely sure it wasn’t occuring before the new belt) I intermittently hear a slight whisping noise, which I used a stethascope to pinpoint, it seems to be loudest at the thermostat housing area. I also have the exact same car with 65,000 miles which does not make this noise. What might be the cause? thanks
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    Take to serpentine belt off and run the car for a few minutes without it. If the whisping is gone it is likely one of the components that the belt is driving. If the noise is still there it would likely be one of the components the timing belt drives.
  • October 31, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    Peter P
    Hi , I have Audi A4 Quattro 1.8t B6 , I was loosing coolant with no sign of leaking , my mechanic suggest to change cooling flange and thermostat ,after done it still coolant was missing , so he told me that head gasket is blown . I have engine code P0302 and P0234 ! He suggested to put head gasket stop leak , which I did ! After driving for 2 months without coolant leak and only have code from time to time P0234 everything works perfect until now !!!! I have engine light blinking when I drive for a while and my engine start overheating , coolant is going high in cooling reservoir tank and my heat is blowing cold air if I’m not driving only when I’m driving and rpm going high , heater core is working good ?!? Find out that my small radiator fan is not turning on at all , doesn,t matter if heat is on or aircondition is on ???? What can cost this problem : radiator clogged ? , water pump , thermostat ( was change before put stop leak ) ?head gasket ??? Please help !!!!
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    You likely have a have a blown the head gasket. This usually causes the compression from one of the 4 cylinders to enter the cooling system. This compressed air raises the cooling system pressure and disrupts or inhibits the coolant from circulating properly causing all of the symptoms you describe. Stop leak cooling system additives are not recommend. In time they will trash your water pump and plug up your heater core.
  • October 14, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    E E
    I have an Audi A4 1.8T B6 Quattro base, 152000kms, after 30km/h a whirring noise comes about and gets incessantly louder as the speed goes faster. I am wondering if this is a water pump/timing belt issue? I have read lots of information on this ’whirring noise problem’ but no concise answers...obviously it needs a few opinions from mechanics.
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    Are you near our location. We would be happy to listen to it and diagnosis it for free! One must determine if it is engine related (noise coming from underneath the hood). Transmission related (noise coming from the interior drive tunnel shifter area) or Suspension related (noise coming from a wheel hub or wheel bearing). Try the suggestion at this link: http://blauparts.com/audi/audi_wheel_bearings/audi_wheel_bearing_kit.shtml#howtoaudiwheelbearing
  • October 14, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    Jason F
    2000 Audi TT Quattro suddenly overheated and engine was smoking. Found water leaking from a hole in one of the water hoses. Hose was replaced. Car continues to overheat and smoke. Also there is a noise coming from the engine sounding like an air leak. Any idea of the cause (s)?
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    The overheating sounds like it may have blown the head gasket. This usually causes the compression from one of the 4 cylinders to enter the cooling system. This compressed air raises the cooling system pressure and disrupts or inhibits the coolant from circulating properly. The smoke is likely antifreeze being burnt after entering the combustion chamber of the cylinder(s)
  • September 22, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    Joseph G
    I have tt 2000 model 1.8, just noticed today clear liquid dropping from under the passenger side in front of the tyre with a bit of noise when the steering wheel is turned fully left or right ?
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    If the fluid is clear, likely a steering pump or steering related hose,leak and not the water pump.
  • August 12, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    Adriana P
    Good day, I hope you can help me, well at least aprove of my concern, despite the fact that the dealership has sent me home with nothing but an answer that this is normal. I have recently noticed this squealing and very annoying sound from under the bonnet ( left side at idle) of my 2013 Audi A1 1.4 TFSI petrol automatic. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EL12iGKSadY I find it hard tobelieve that it is a normal sound as Ihave been told by the mechanics at Audi , a vacuum cleaner perhaps, but one year old Audi? Sure yes, I am a women and blond too, but my common sense is telling me something is off. I live inAustralia and I presume the boys here do not have too much experience with european cars, on the other hand me as an european I have heard many Audis pass by, none of them sounding that scary. What I am reading on your site makes me only certain that I need to go back to Audi and be more pushy. Your expert opinion however means a lot to me and I will appreciae any input from you. I thank you in advance and reards from kangaroos. Adriana
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    Good Day, Sounds like the secondary air pump. Without getting to detailed about why this part is on the car, this is an electric air pump that is part of the emissions system. When running, it pumps air into the exhaust system when the engine is cold. This pump only ensures the vehicle stays emission compliant when the engine is first started when cold. It runs for about a minute and then shuts off.
  • August 4, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    Clare D
    My A4 has a water pump leak. It has 48,000 mile on iy. Should the timing belt be changed as well as repairing the pump?
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    Approximately 40-50% percent of the service life has been used up on the timing belt. Either way in another 40K your going to have to replace the timing belt and the other timing belt components. (i.e. tensioners)
  • June 23, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    Miriam R
    My Audi A4 1.8t seems to be leaking. Took it for 115000km service last week but they could not find the leak. Today I have filled the water tank 5 times with water and the coolant warning comes on before 15 minutes and the tank is empty. There is no water under the car or anywhere I can see in the car. What do you think the problem is ?
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    Possible blown head gasket. The coolant could be entering one or more of the engine cylinders and then consumed/burnt up during the combustion process. If this is the case, when you rev your engine and you have white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe your head gasket is blown.
  • May 7, 2014
    Question/Comment from:
    TONY R
    Answer from Huri of the blauparts technical team:
    What Year make and model do you have? If the car is over heating, inspect and replace the thermostat. Make sure you burp the cooling system of all air. Air in the cooling system can cause an air lock condition and disrupt coolant circulation and flow. I the car still overheats inspect the water pump impeller. The impeller may have loosened from the water pump shaft. As a result the impeller is not spinning resulting in no coolant flow.
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